Kittens can start to eat sold food at any time between 3 and 6 weeks old.  You will know when the time is right because the mother cat will start to encourage the kittens to spend more time away from her.  This usually takes the form of pushing them away and/or walking away from them for short periods.

When this starts, take the kittens away from their mother for half an hour at a time and offer them food.  Any wet food is fine.  If you only use dry cat food, soak it in water before giving it to the kittens.

You will discover very quickly that this is a messy process.  Sometimes - maybe even most of the time - it will seem like the kittens have got food everywhere except in their little mouths.  Paws, fur, ears, eyes and tails will often need cleaned after feeding.

If the kittens don’t appear to be hungry before half and hour has passed, remove the food.

As time passes, gradually increase the length of time they are away from their mother when feeding has finished.

After 2-3 months you should be finished weaning.  The kittens will not drink their mother’s milk, and will eat only solid food.  You can now give yourself a pat on the back!

As a footnote, if the mother cat doesn’t start to encourage her kittens to spend more time away from her by 6 weeks, you will need to step in and start the separation phase of the weaning.

Renewing

Cats’ claws grow from the inside, and the outer layers are shed as the claw outgrows them.  Scratching helps these layers fall off quicker, as evidenced by the number of shards of claw at the bottom of a favourite scratching station.

Territory

Scratching leaves marks for other cats to see, and a scent for them to smell.  It lets them know they are in an area patrolled by another cat.

Exercise

When a cat is scratching, every muscle from the shoulder to the claws is being loosened, warmed up, and kept supple.  In particular, the muscles that retract and extend the claws get a proper workout, in readiness for the next hunt, or the next time a little mouse-shaped toy needs playing with!

The first thing to remember is that the cats are in charge.  Let them determine the pace of friendship building.

Then you should consider the personality of the cats involved.

You know your cats, and should be able to make a reasonable guess at the personality of the new cat.  So if either cat is shy or takes longer to make friends, take things at a more gentle pace.

If they are both the sort that looks for a crowd to join in, can start a conversation with anybody, and has a bright extroverted personality, then why not let them get on with it?

The other thing to consider is space.  No matter what the personality, if you force them into the same small space which at least one cat believes is theirs and theirs alone, there will be trouble.  If they are outdoor cats and can disappear for a bit of “me time” there is less potential for bother.

So let’s say you have a shy cat at home called Salt, and you have found a gorgeous-but-very-suspicious-of-other-cats moggy at the local shelter called Pepper.  Both cats are going to be kept indoors.  How should you handle this?

Step 1

Put Pepper in a room that Salt doesn’t use, and keep him in there whenever Salt is running about the house.

Step 2

Whenever Salt is in a room he can’t get out of (or is outside), open the door of Pepper’s room and let him wander out and explore if he wants.

Step 3

Continue with this until Pepper is comfortable in another room in the house.  Make sure he can’t get out of it and let Salt into his room.  This will introduce their scents to each other.  If this causes upset to Pepper, go back to step 2 until she is happy again.

Step 4

Repeat step 3 until Pepper doesn’t mind the scent of Salt in his room.

Step 5

Find a way of letting them see each other in the flesh with minimal physical contact e.g. through a gap in sliding doors, using a door stop in an ordinary door, or some other method you can come up with.

Step 6

Open that door!

All newborn kittens have two openings under their tails.  In the females these are obviously the anus (closest to the tail) and the vagina.  Some people are surpised to learn that in male kittens the lower opening is in fact the penis.

Therefore at first glance, both male and female kittens look the same under their tails.  However, on closer examination there are two differences.

In males, the distance between the two openings is greater than in females.  As mentioned, even the professionals get it wrong, especially when faced with a single kitten.  The best way to notice the difference in this distance is to look at a number of kittens and compare what you’re seeing.

The reason for the larger gap in males is to make room for the testicles, which do not appear outside the body for a couple of months.

The second difference is the shape of the lower opening.  In females it is a narrow vertical opening, whereas with males it is rounder.  Some people compare the area under a female kitten’s tail to a lower case letter i, and the male’s to a colon :

That’s a huge simplification of reality, but nonetheless goes somewhat towards describing the situation.

One more tip - if you’re feeling up to it, you can give the lower opening a small squeeze.  If the tip of the penis appears, it’s a boy.

There is also a health issue related to sexing.  You should check kittens under their tail as a matter of course.  This is because on rare occasions there is only one opening.  This requires immediate veterinary attention.

The treatment

The process of vaccination is itself simple.  A newborn kitten gets her first set of injections at 9 weeks old, then another set at 12 weeks old.

An older cat that hasn’t been vaccinated will get two sets, three weeks apart.

Depending on factors such as likelihood of contact with other cats and who you listen to, your cat will be fully protected either one week or two weeks later.

No other initial treatment is necessary, but annual boosters are usually administered.  Veterinary experts aren’t entirely sure if yearly top-ups are necessary, but most pet insurance companies will insist on them.

The diseases

Cat Flu (aka Feline Upper Respiratory Disease Complex)

Strictly speaking cat flu is one of a range of viral infections. By far the two most common are feline rhinotracheitis and feline calicivirus.  The vaccinations will protect against these two feline diseases.

The symptoms vary slightly, but will include most of the following: sneezing, coughing, runny nose, drooling, loss of appetite, fever, depression, eye ulcers, mouth ulcers, joint pain and gunky eyes.

A cat with cat flu is in severe danger from dehydration in the short term, and may also develop pneumonia.  In the case of calicivirus especially, the disease never really goes away.  Rhinotracheitis will re-appear when it’s least welcome i.e. at times of stress.  Reproduction in female cats may also be impossible.

Feline Infectious Enteritis (aka Panleukopania)

Another virus that causes severe problems for cats.  It is widespread, partly because it is so hard to kill.  It can also survive for over a year without getting anywhere near a cat.

The symptoms are vomiting, diarrhoea, fever, seizures, depression, thirst and crippling abdominal pain.  It attacks the digestive system, lymphatic system, nervous system and bone marrow.

Feline infectious enteritis can kill within five days.  Kittens that get the disease rarely survive, and cats that do get through it suffer for the rest of their lives.

Their intestines will be permanently damaged, they will suffer diarrhoea, and any females who fall pregnant will give birth to either stillborn or brain damaged kittens.

Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV)

Again, caused by a virus, FeLV is a nasty feline disease.  It causes the growth of malignant tumours in the lymphatic system, nervous system, nasal cavity, spleen, kidneys and thymus gland.  This leads on to a range of problems affecting the nerves, bone marrow, intestine, blood and reproductive organs.

In severe cases the only treatment is to make the cat feel as comfortable as possible.

Initial symptoms are loss of appetite, breathing problems, fever, difficulty swallowing, weight loss, depression, diarrhoea and anaemia.

FeLV kills two thirds of the cats it infects.

The conclusion

Get your cats and kittens vaccinated.

History and Origins

Like the Siamese cat, the exact origins of the Persian cat have been lost in time.  However, there is some evidence to suggest that they do indeed originate in Iran, formerly called Persia.

Some historians contend that there are hieroglyphic references to the Persian cat dating to 1700 BC, which would make their origins a more cloudy issue.

The first Persian cats to enter Europe arrived by two routes.  One was into Italy, the other into France.  Both events took place in the early 17th century, and since then they have been bred to the standard known today.

Colour and Form

There is no particular colour for a Persian cat.  There are about 100 different variations on 7 basic patterns.  Some of the more exotic names include Red Smoke, Shell Chocolate Calico and Flame Point.

However, all Persian cats have a long thick coat and a shortened - in some cases non-existant muzzle.  They also have very large eyes and fairly rounded ears.

Their body shape is heavy, stocky and compact.

Persian cats require daily grooming to prevent the hair matting and needing clipped by a vet.  They also need bathed regularly to keep the hair in good condition.  It is best to get the cat used to bathing at an early age to prevent problems at a later date.  Combing should be a pleasure for both of you!

The large eyes although beautiful, can become problematic in older Persian cats.  A hard growth sometimes forms under the eye.

Another potential problem is the shortened muzzle.  By its very nature, it causes deformities in the sinuses and nasal cavity, which can lead on to respiratory problems.  It is also a shortened, therefore less effective filter of dust and dirt that wouldn’t cause problems in longer-nosed cats.

Polycystic kidney disease and retained testicles are also more common in Persian cats, but the PKD is being bred out.

Personality and Behaviour

The Persian cat is one of the most relaxed cats you will ever come across.  They are quiet, laid back and love to sit back and watch everything that is going on around them, without ever getting excited about any of it.

They do enjoy gentle play, and can move with surprising agility when called upon, or upon encountering something resembling prey.

Generally, any other cat is welcome in the home of a Persian cat, as long as it doesn’t expect too much rough and tumble.

Perfect as an indoor cat that provides quiet companionship, and will make you smile every time you look at him, it’s no wonder the Persian cat is the most recognizable and popular cats in the world today.

However, there is one type of cat that will not respond well to those measures - the outdoor cat.

Forcing an outdoor cat inside and blocking out the scary noises will not make sense.  She will simply think she isn’t allowed out, and have no idea why. You will most likely end up with torn furniture, torn curtains, urine stains and smells, and a very unhappy cat.

Similarly, you can’t put the cat out.  The fireworks will scare her to levels that could only be described as tormenting.

What you need to do is provide the cat with some sort of safe haven, with the option of coming right into the house.  If your cat is never in the house, she will most likely have a favourite hiding place somewhere in the neighbourhood.  However, it would be better to provide one in any outdoor space within your own property.

A utility room or porch with an outer door left ajar could also be used, with the option for the cat to come right into the house.  As long as she knows she can leave the house proper, and return at will there shouldn’t be a problem.

Although the usual advice will state that all exit routes from the house should be blocked, this really only applies to house cats that have shaky nerves at the best of times.  An outdoor cat that comes to your house for treats or affection is much less likely to associate the fireworks with your house and run away.

Other than that, if and when your outdoor cats do come into the house because of fireworks, the usual advice is good advice.  Do provide a dark room with soothing music, and “act-normal” human behaviour.  Just don’t force the cat into it.

Some people prefer to put the cat on a table, others on their lap, and others like to sit on the floor with the cat between their knees.

Once you are in position and comfortable, you need to make sure the cat is totally under your control.  A good way to achieve this is to wrap the cat in a towel with only her head sticking out.  Also, make sure her rear end is against you or another solid object so she can’t back out.

Finally, place thumb and forefinger on the hinges of the cat’s jaw until the mouth opens, and pop the pill in.

A useful tip is to turn the cat’s head over one shoulder, then tilt it upwards before opening the jaws.  This makes the jaws a bit easier to open.  Once the pill is in, the main part of the battle is over. The next job is to get your cat to swallow the pill. Return her head to a more neutral position and stroke under the chin until the pill is swallowed. Another useful tip is to blow on her nose to dry it out. When you let go she will lick it, which will automatically be followed by a swallow.

Although the process of giving a pill to a cat is less than pleasurable, and certainly uncomfortable, it could never be described as distressing. Cats know when they are being helped, and you will probably find yourself on the receiving end of some feline gratitude when the illness in question has cleared up.

A fracture is usually obvious, but in some cases - such as broken ribs - it may not be too easy to spot.  Watch out for inactivity, dislike of being handled, laboured breathing and depression.

The most common bones for cats to fracture are the legs, pelvis, spine and jaw.

Leg fractures

When a cat fractures a leg it is easy to spot, and fairly straightforward to treat.  However it is important to ensure there are no other joint, organ or spinal injuries that also need treated but are not as obvious.  Treatment can be either splinting or surgical depending on how the vet assesses the injury.

Pelvis fractures

Some pelvis fractures can be left to heal on their own, others will require surgical repair.  The main cause of concern when a cat suffers a pelvic fracture as a result of heavy trauma is damage to the kidneys and urinary system.

Spine fractures

Spinal injuries have the potential to be very serious.  If a fractured spine occurs along with severe damage to the spinal cord, no amount of bone healing will help and the cat will need to be put to sleep.  Even tail fractures can come with unexpected complications.  Some tail fractures can leave cats unable to control their toilet activities.

Jaw fractures

Although jaw fractures are deeply unpleasant to witness, they are not usually life-threatening.  With wiring and or pinning, the cat will usually make a full recovery.

Once the vet has completed their medical and/or surgical treatment, they will probably set out a course of physical therapy for the cat.  It is very important to follow these instructions closely as they will usually mean the difference between permanent disfigurement, deformity, disablement or injury, and a full recovery.

If you have a cat and want another one, go to your local shelter where you will find a large selection.  Do not breed and hope to get rid of the rest of the litter - you won’t.

Another sobering statistic: in the UK alone around 1,000 healthy cats and kittens are destroyed every day because a home can’t be found for them.

Now on to the more practical reasons from a cat owner’s point of view.  Male cats that have not been neutered are a nightmare.  If they are kept indoors they will spray urine on the furniture, walls and curtains, and try to escape all the time.  Outdoor cats that haven’t been neutered will fight, which can lead to abscesses, FeLV and FIV (the feline form of HIV).  Neutering also eliminates the possibility of testicular cancer.

Female cats that haven’t been spayed also cause massive problems.  They too spray urine everywhere, and howl constantly when in heat.  From a health perspective, spaying guarantees that the cat will not get uterine or ovarian cancer, and the risk of mammary cancer is significantly reduced.  An unspayed female cat is also at risk from FeLV and FIV because the male bites the females neck during mating, and these bites frequently break the skin.  Any male cat carrying the viruses will then pass them on to the female.

Finally, spaying and neutering should take place as soon as possible.  There are several notions often stated as fact for delaying spaying and neutering (e.g. females should have at least one litter first) but science has tested these notions, and there are now no reasons not to have kittens spayed and neutered.

Indeed there are several benefits.  For example, a kitten that is spayed will only require one stitch to close the wound.  Also, getting back to the population explosion, kittens of both sexes can breed at 4 months old.  So get it done early.

As a footnote, there is the elephant in the room of pedigree cats.  Obviously if they are all spayed and neutered there would be no more pedigree cats - an undesirable situation.  If you intend to buy a pedigree cat, do everything you can to make sure the breeder is a responsible breeder.  A good sign that they are is if they insist on spaying/neutering of any cats they sell to non-breeders.